From October 13, 2010, when Sepawa opens, Fulda will become the center of an important and much diversified industry for three days. More than 1000 attendants have registered. Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Ulrich Buller, Chairman of the Sepawa, and in his main profession Senior Vice President Research Planning, Legal Affairs of the Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft, gives insights into the most recent trends and in topics that are discussed throughout the industry. Prior to the event, CHEManager Europe interviewed Prof. Buller.

CHEManager Europe: What are the most important developments you've seen within soap, perfume, cosmetic and detergent industries over the last year?

Prof. U. Buller: One of today's main topics, „sustainability", has occupied the industry, containing in a wider context sustainability not only in terms of raw materials but also including the entire chain of production and distribution. So far, good progress has been achieved, and has been implemented into products. While these efforts are highly appreciated by the consumers, at the same time they do not accept tradeoffs in terms of efficiency and price. The development of new products, therefore, should include progress for both aspects - sustainability and efficiency.
Let us take fragrances as an example, because they are contained in nearly every product in our industry. What applies to a normal perfume, applies to all fragrances: they are volatile and decompose in air. If the research for encapsulation and alternative delivery systems as core/shell or matrix is successful, and if controlled release is possible, we will achieve two goals: The original fragrances as raw materials are utilized more intensely and their impact on wastewater, e.g. from fabric softeners, is reduced.

For detergents, almost the same trend toward more sustainability is observed throughout the entire supply chain. The first series of products containing more than 85% renewables is now on a par with traditional products. Trends toward liquid detergents and energy saving low-temperature washing (below 30°C) are increasing in Europe as well. Today we have liquid heavy duty detergents with low temperature claims. This is only possible with the newly developed surfactants and enzymes. Just look at the convenient packages - same efficiency with lower dosage: R&D on compactation was very successful. The resulting minor energy and raw material consumption also support sustainability.
Unfortunately the perfect phosphate free automatic dishwashing product has not been offered yet.

Just recently the first permanent hair tinting lotions without ammonia have been presented, and more and more products for men are available. Antitranspirants based on silver technology have been launched by several companies.

How did the industry fare over the course of the recession?

Prof. U. Buller: Obviously, the consumers became thoroughly price conscious and generally modified their consumer behaviour; nevertheless particular focuses are observed. Generally speaking, there is a hyper competition in the cosmetic market with enormously aggressive pricing for detergents as well as cleaning agents. As cleanliness, however, is part of the social fundamental agreement, people would not lower their sights in this respect. This is observed in the consumer's behavior: it is not only the price that plays a role but also brand qualities such as performance, longevity and trust. Consumers are still willing to pay for real innovations.

The perfume and cosmetics markets are affected much more. Further consolidation has occurred among the fragrance producers. As always, consumers still buy cosmetics, but the price has become a striking argument. Lower price and more private label products allow absorbing losses. Overall, there is an immense continuing struggle to crowd out competitors which is being waged by price and an exploding promotion intensity, containing high media investments.

What trends are driving R&D in the industry?

Prof. U. Buller: The consequences of REACH have not been totally worked off yet. Particularly for the section of fragrances, not all challenges have been met until today. Some of the respective substances have been replaced, others must still be investigated thoroughly. The development of precursors for the targeted release of fragrances will be fostered intensively - we talked about this already.

Particularly for the producers of cosmetics it is crucial to have exclusive products. Premium ingredients, such as silk for styling products or stem cell extracts for skin care give new glamour to the industry. New hyper performing cosmetic products shall stimulate sales after the recession. More and more products with health claims and products based on natural ingredients will be launched for health-conscious consumers.

The development of ingredients for new low-temperature heavy duty detergents will be continued, i.e. surfactants, enzymes, bleaching agents and polymers are further optimized. As to the equipment, we saw the presentation of the first automated dosage systems, integrated into the machines at the IFA in Berlin. Years ago, I had the opportunity to test the first ultra-sound washing machine and, admittedly is was not really convincing. But research is going on. At the moment steam, laser, ozone, and machines with nano-silver are being discussed as alternate cleaning technologies.

How is industrial biotech being used in the industry?

Prof. U. Buller: In this context above all we have to talk about detergents. The convenience of our modern detergents would not be possible without enzymes, which are all obtained through biotechnology. At present six different types of enzymes are added, mainly to remove stains. Again we need special enzymes for low-temperatures. Also so-called repair enzymes were patented, that might remedy minor damages in cotton or polyester fibres.

How does the industry - particularly cosmetics - stand to benefit from an ageing population?

Prof. U. Buller: What age-group are we talking about - 50, 60 or 70 plus? What I want to point out is, that the feeling for your own age has changed considerably. Today people of these age-groups have a different attitude toward life and a different body perception than former generations - and many of them have sound financial resources at their disposal. Besides skin care, cosmetics should give attractiveness, and a little self-pampering. Today specific anti-aging and skin and hair care products are commercially available, as well as products based on natural ingredients, but all will increase their shares.

Predosed products, as well as automatic dosing systems facilitate washing for people with poor eyesight.

What are your expectations for this year's Sepawa Congress?

Prof. U. Buller: If you just look at the local conditions, the larger area in Fulda will again enhance the diversity of the exhibition. But we have also set up new conditions for the presentation and discussion of the professional contents. In addition to the more fundamental contributions of the EDC-Conference, a new, very application-oriented discussion forum was installed, the „Forum for Innovations"; moreover, a further important association of the branch, the DGK (German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetic) agreed to co-operate and gives a new facet to the event. I am, therefore, looking forward to a variegated, inspiring event on a high professional level. The participants will go home full of new ideas and fresh impetus for the industry.