US biotech Genomatica has signed a multi-year agreement with Italian nylon producer Aquafil to create sustainable caprolactam.

The two companies aim to develop Genomatica’s GENO CPL technology at commercial scale and produce the key nylon ingredient from plant-based renewable feedstocks, rather than crude oil-based intermediates.

Caprolactam, which is used in various nylon-based products including carpets and clothing, is said to have a global market of more than 5 million t/y.

The California-based company said it aims to provide an environmentally friendly way to make the intermediate with better economics, including for smaller-scale plants, adding that the bio-based product will have a performance that is fully comparable to its oil-derived counterpart and will not require nylon manufacturers to carry out any machine or process adjustments.

According to Genomatica, its GENO CPL technology offers several advantages compared to conventional processes, including up to 40% lower costs, no ammonium sulfate or nitrogen oxide (NOx) byproduct while also being simpler and safer to operate.

Commenting on the collaboration, Guilio Bonazzi, chairman and CEO of Aquafil, said consumers and manufacturers were looking forward to opportunities to play an active role in the circular economy. He commented: “We aim to be a leader of sustainability for nylon, and we are excited by the opportunity to be the first to bring the benefits of this new technology to our customers.”

Aquafil launched its Econyl Regeneration System in 2011 to produce nylon from 100% regenerated waste. The company currently supplies Econyl as a sustainable alternative to various sportswear, fashion, luxury and carpet brands.

Christophe Schilling, Genomatica’s CEO, added that this was “another example of Genomatica applying the power of biology to rethink how widely-used chemicals can be made a better way.”